Adventure Talk – Sharing my experiences with you

“Happiness is only real when shared” – there is a lot of truth in this well-known quote from “Into The Wild”. Many adventures are associated with hardships. To speak of real joy during the events is usually not quite accurate. So, it's usually the overall experience in retrospect and the associated increase in experiences that makes you remember the experience as meaningful and positive. For me, of course, there is also the fact that as a photographer I not only want to share my stories about the ultra-distance bikepacking events, but of course I also want to present my photos. The new talk format in Kiel called “Adventure Talk” was of course the perfect occasion. The concept was created by Robin from Café9, also co-founder of the Kiel Dawn Patrol, an established racing bike community. In the audience I was pleased to see some well-known faces from the scene but also many other aspiring athletes. In advance, Marei Moldenhauer talked about her impressive performance at the Transcontinental Race. Overall, a very inspiring and excellently organized evening. I'm already looking forward to a continuation of the series.

Holy Gravel — The trinity of doom tracing the Apostels

»Holy Gravel« is a non-commercial Gravel event starting and finishing in Hamburg. It’s known for it’s high percentage of gravel, single trail and sandy sections, leading you through the most beautiful parts of north-eastern Germany. The event offers two routes: a shorter one accounting for 550 km, and a longer 750 km ride. Nils, Gunnar and me had chosen the short one, since we only had three days to finish the track due to family responsibilities. We didn’t really know what to expect, so we were curious and open-minded for a three day adventure with a lot of riding, impressive landscapes and sleeping in a bivy outdoors.

Day 1

Together with approximately 200 riders we started on a Saturday morning. Soon, we left the city traffic of Hamburg and headed towards the suburbs. After the first 30 km riding in a big group with a few traffic jams, we decided to get ahead of the group.

After a short »sprint«, we found ourself alone in the rural area of Herzogtum Lauenburg. From now on, we would very rarely ride on paved roads. The track leads along the many lakes of the area and after about 95 km we arrived in Ratzeburg where we decide to take a longer lunch break for fish and chips.

In the afternoon, we crossed the former border region between West and East Germany, the so called death strip, on sandy single trails.

After a short resupply break in a supermarket, we headed towards the Baltic Sea. The coastline was bathed in beautiful soft sunset light, as we were flying over paved bike lanes towards Boltenhagen, our last stop before the night. On the last kilometers, we were joined by Sebastian Stoll, who also kept us company for a pizza stop. In the restaurant, we also used the bathroom to get off all the dust, sun screen, sweat and all the small flies, we collected over the day.

Riding into the darkness, we soon reached our bivy spot for the night around midnight: a beautiful place right next to the steep coast in a pine forest. We set up the camp, and after 200 km of riding we fell asleep.

Day 2

Our day started quite early. I woke up around 4.15 am even before my alarm went off. It was already surprisingly bright, and I saw that Nils was already up as well. Thus, as the sun was rising we packed our gear and started the second and longest day of our trip.
Before breakfast, we continued on single trails and sandy sections along the coastline towards the city of Wismar.

In Wismar, we finally found a bakery that was already open. After cheese sandwiches and coffee we kept riding towards the Mecklenburgische Seenplatte, a district with a huge network of lakes surrounded by forest. I call it the »Canada of Germany«.

The terrain got more and more difficult to ride on. Sandy trails, bumpy roads and steep ramps were taking us more time than we had expected. Additionally, the dry and hot weather made it even more exhausting. All three of us experienced a few »lows«, which luckily were compensated by our positive and supporting group spirit. With an extra bit of sarcasm and silliness we always got ourself motivated again for the next stretch.

I had very little experience riding sand, especially on a gravel bike. Therefore, I was slightly afraid of riding it with higher speeds. After a few sand sections and falling off the bike twice, I decided to accept my fate and go for it. After this day, I would be better at riding sand and maybe I also liked it a little bit more.

I don’t know how, but with two stops for a swim in the lake and a lot of snack breaks we somehow managed to conquer over 200 km again.
Tired and with pain in the hands and butts we were riding into the sunset. As it got dark, we deiced to call it a day and found a nice bivy spot under some trees next to a field.

Day 3

Again, we started our third and last day quite early. At 4.30 am, my alarm interrupted my deep sleep in the bivy bag. The sun showed up, but only to be covered by clouds shortly afterwards.

After the hot temperatures the days before, the cloudy weather and light drizzle was a welcome change. After breakfast at kilometer 20 and a resupply in the supermarket, we started towards the finale of our trip. The third day had way more tarmac than the days before. After a short sandy root trail next to a channel, we got onto the Elberadweg, a bike route following the dike next to the Elbe river. With an average of 25-30 km/h we got into a different kind of flow. For the first time you could turn off your head and just pedal.

In the afternoon the weather got hot again, and we noticed the fatigue that came from the past days. Still, we kept our pace and enjoyed the highlights along the route.
We passed by the towns of Boizenburg and Lauenburg and the rode across the high riverbank of the Elbe river, leading us to Hamburg.

The last kilometers felt like an eternity, but after 55 hours we finally reached our starting point Hamburg again. Tired but happy, we packed our bikes into the van and headed back home to Kiel with a head full of memories.

Gran Guanche Gravel Audax — Ultra Bikepacking across the Canary Islands

A few hundred kilometers off the African mainland we’ll find a group of volcanic islands sticking out of the Atlantic Ocean. This surreal place ranging from desert-like landscapes over foggy rain forest to lush pastureland is the home of GranGuanche, a bike-packing route (or more precisely three routes) that takes you to the most stunning places on the Canary Islands. There is a version for road bikes, MTB, and gravel bikes. For each category, an Audax takes place every year where cyclists around the world gather to ride the route together as fast as possible. The route includes five of the eight populated islands, four ferry rides and accounts for around 700 km from the start in Lanzarote to the finish line in El Hierro. Additionally, you’ll have to climb almost 17000 meters in elevation.

700 km

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+16,000 m

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5 islands

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4 ferries

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700 km – +16,000 m – 5 islands – 4 ferries –

For my first official ultra cycling event I chose GranGuanche because of the magical and diverse landscape, the logistic challenge with all the ferry schedules, and the promise of a mostly rideable route.

1. Lanzarote – Riding through the night

The GranGuanche Gravel Audax starts at 10 pm in the small town of Órzola in the very north of Lanzarote. Since sunset is around 7 pm in March it’s already pitch dark. Around noon I had already taken a shared taxi from my apartment in the south of Lanzarote to the town. With some other riders, we were having lunch at a fish restaurant and spent some time at the beach before the briefing. Time goes by very slowly when you’re waiting for an ultra event to start, so any distraction is welcome, like picking up your starting kit, checking your GPS tracking device or eating pasta.

At 10 pm the waiting is finally over. All together we’re staring into the night. A swarm of bikes with flashing lights is creeping into the dark night. The first climb is already long and steep. The first riders start pushing the bikes. After a few kilometers into the route, I get into my pace. On the long and rocky descents through the darkness, I’m already confirmed in my decision to ride the route on a hardtail MTB.
Looking back in my memories the first stretch on Lanzarote feels like a dream, where I’m not even sure if it really happened. Due to the loss of orientation and any sense of time, I couldn’t even say how long I’m riding. Nevertheless, I arrive at the harbor in Playa Blanca around 4.30 am after riding around 100 km and climbing 2,000 meters.

I stop right next to a waiting room of the ferry companies and see other riders resting there. I have expected to spend the following hours until the ferry leaves in the cold, so I’m pleasantly surprised by the level of comfort. I inflate my sleeping pad, get out my quilt and lay down on the floor next to the other riders. After almost two hours of sleep, my alarm goes off and reminds me to get ready for the first ferry ride.

The sun is already up and in the beautiful morning light, I roll onto the vessel. Surprisingly, the short rest was more effective than I had expected and I’m in a good mood for the next islands. On the ferry, we grab some breakfast and enjoy the 30 min ride to Fuerteventura.

Photo by Matteo Minelli

2. Fuerteventura – Landing on a desert planet

Most riders are leaving the ferry in a hurry. If they want to catch the 6 or 8 pm ferry to Gran Canaria they have to ride the 160 km and 2,700 m without losing too much time. First of all, I go to a bakery at the harbor to get coffee and cake while all the other participants are already up and away. I’m not in a hurry at all. My plan is to take the ferry the next morning so I have all day to finish Fuerteventura.
After breakfast, I get back on the bike, and after leaving the harbor town the route follows the steep coastline in the northwest of the island. With just a few meters between you and the cliffs, you have the most scenic ride you could imagine. Fine gravel roads alter with washboard roller coaster surfaces, thus I make it a game to find the smoothest line in between. Did I mention I still don’t regret going for the hardtail?

Around noon, I get back on tarmac and in the heat I climb up to Betancuria, a historic town in the mountains. In Pajara I sit down in a cafe to get some proper food. Here I first meet Frank and Frank, two fellow riders from Germany who already met at ultra events before and traveled to the Canary Islands together.
After some burger and coke, I’m ready for the second half of Fuerteventura.

The following kilometers are a constant up and down on chunky gravel roads. I first try to catch up with Frank but after a while he is vanishing in the distance.
In the afternoon I’m back on tarmac and after some seriously steep climbs, I’m finally rewarded with a long descent. Shortly after a sandy section at Sotavento beach, I start to look for a nice place for the night.

It’s almost dark when I find a nice spot at the beach to set up my bivy. I’m instantly falling asleep under the starlit night sky of Fuerteventura. I only get up once in the night. The waves are appearing to come closer to my camp, so I decide to move further from the ocean. In the morning I get up in time to ride the last kilometer to the ferry.

Gran Canaria – the steepest climb of my life

I arrive in Gran Canaria at around 10 am. The city of Las Palmas (and especially the bike lane) is under construction. I’m trying to find my way out as fast as possible. But, the first 40 kilometers are more or less in urban areas. Even though I have some nice descents I’m happy to reach the town of Ingenio where I leave the busy roads and start my climb into the mountains. Meanwhile, it’s noon and the sun is burning down on me. The first part is on tarmac and always around 6-8% elevation. For the first time during the Audax, I put in my headphones to listen to some driving beats for motivation. At a restaurant, the tarmac road ends and the route follows a rocky and very steep »gravel« road altered by a likewise steep slab path. Even with my MTB, I have to push the bike a lot. Looking back at it, this was the hardest part of the entire route for me (mentally and physically). But, ultra cycling is just about »standing it« so I keep on pushing and in the late afternoon I arrive at the top at »Llanos de Pez«.

The views are stunning and while slowly descending on the other side of the top, the clouds are rolling in. The atmosphere is changing rapidly as we ride in and out of the fog. As much as I was struggling on the climb, as happy I’m now to have it done.
Not far from the top I arrive at a finca hostel with a stunning view of the sunset. For the first time, I have the comfort of a bed and a warm shower. After dinner, I’m going straight to bed and fall asleep instantly.

The next morning I’m getting up early. It’s still dark outside and for the descent I put on all my clothing. After a while the sun comes up and because of the constant up and down of the road I’m getting warm. For the final decent I’m leaving the tarmac road again for a chunky and steep gravel road through a deep ravine. It’s super quiet here, with no cars, no people, and nothing to worry about but to stay on the road.
On the last kilometers, while I’m having a sandwich at a cafe, Frank catches up with me and we’re riding together to Agaete to catch the 12 am ferry.

Tenerife — Stunning Landscapes and a very cold night

We arrive in Santa Cruz around noon. I try to get out of the city as fast as possible. Because I had to resupply I’m riding the first kilometer alone. I’m already at the climb to Anaga when I catch up with Jens again. We enjoy the rest of the climb up the lush green mountains together. The weather is a bit chilly and the clouds are hanging low on the mountaintops. After the climb, we start descending to La Laguna on beautiful forest trails.

In La Laguna we are looking for a restaurant to have pasta or pizza. But in the late afternoon the choice of restaurants that are already open is quite limited. We finally find a burger place and order burgers and fries. Jens wants to sleep in La Laguna and start early the next morning but my goal was to go a little further into the island. I want to have more time the next day to enjoy the Teide National Park. With the pressure to catch the only ferry to El Hierro the next day at 5 pm, I don’t want the distance be too long. Fortunately, Frank is also down for a few more kilometers into the night. I have found a natural camping site »La Caldera« on the map which I think is a good milestone and we might even find water and toilets there.

So, we start into the darkness and immersed in conversation the time seems to fly by. We only get an idea of the surrounding forest as we follow the branched path that slowly leads us further up into the Teide National Park. The temperature is dropping as we climb higher and our destination doesn’t seem to come closer. Around midnight all of Frank batteries die. With only one light and one GPS computer we’re struggling to make it further through the night. It feels like the longest 35 km of my life. Around 00:30 am we’re finally reaching the camping site. We’re a little disappointed. Not water, no toilets, no shelters. In the end, we find a close-by picnic place with a roof. Meanwhile, it’s already 3 °C We put all our clothes on and crawl into our bivy bags. Tired and exhausted we fall asleep only to wake up from time to time because we’re freezing.

Only five hours later we’re up again to continue our climb through the sunlit pine forest. The sky is clear, temperatures are moderate and the only thing we hear on this peaceful morning is the sound of our drivetrains. The Teide National Park is a stunning place. Every few kilometers the landscape changes and we discover a new natural wonder.
I'm happy that we don’t have to rush here.

After two coffee breaks we start the 35 km-long descent to Los Cristianos. We still have two hours before the ferry leaves, so we’re having our first pizza of the trip.

El Hierro — An Island off the grid

The crossing to El Hierro is quite shaky. Next to our ferry, we see dolphins jumping as the sun sets at the horizon. It’s already dark as we arrive in El Hierro. There is not much around at the harbor so we start with the climb to Valverde, the capital of the island. On the way up I have the only bonk of the entire Audax. Probably because of the heavy sea, I didn’t feel like eating on the ferry. I immediately grab a muffin from my musette and bring up my blood sugar again. The wind is super strong and almost blows us off our bikes. I don’t know where I get my motivation from. I’m tired, completely wet from sweat but also freezing because of the cold wind. There is little to no motivation left. All I want now is to take a shower and sleep for a few hours. Tomorrow will be another day. I share an accommodation with the two Franks and instantly fall asleep on the couch.
The next morning, my motivation is back. In the darkness, we start and leave the villages in the north. The two Franks are going directly back on the route while a do a little detour to make sure I get back onto the route at the exact same spot where I left it. A little later, I find myself in vivid green pastureland with the sun rising above the green hills. Right and left I’m greeted by goats, chickens and cows.

As I’m done with the first of the two big climbs of the island I catch a glimpse of the El Golfo valley into which I’m descending a short time later on a chunky gravel descent.
I meet Jonas and Simon on the way down. They met just before the event and are riding the Audax together. While looking down at the coast we’re thinking about where to resupply before the second climb. I’ve planned to climb a few hundred meters in elevation away from the route to a mini market in a small town but considering the elevation that is still waiting for me, I’m thinking about alternatives. On the dot watching map I see the two Frank dots standing still just a few kilometers ahead at what is obviously a hotel. In hope of coffee or even breakfast we decide to give this option a try. It’s fair to say, we’re not disappointed. At the Hotel »Balneario Pozo la Salud« stumble into an air-conditioned breakfast room with a buffet that offers everything a hungry rider can wish for. We’re loading our plates and half an hour later we are ready to keep on riding.

We follow along the coast of the El Golfo valley before the second and longest climb starts. Simon and Jonas are setting a good pace which I can’t keep up with. So, I’m struggling on my own in the midday heat. After a while, I find my pace and don’t really want to spot as I catch up with them both while taking a break. Shortly later I’m back on the bike and just before I reach the top of the climb I also meet Frank. The views are amazing up the and I’m happy that I successfully made the last big climb of the whole Audax. The success inspires me to go a little fast on the descent through beautiful pines forest. I enjoy the sun, the wind on my face and the winding road down to the finish line. The feeling that nothing can stop me now takes over and activates some unknown resources.

On March 23rd I reach the finish line after 4 days, 17 hours, and 43 minutes. Just a few minutes later the two Franks, Jonas and Simon arrive at the finish line.
It feels great to finish my first ultra event and I’m grateful that everything went the way I had planned it.
I also realize why events like GranGuanche are so popular. It’s more about the experience than about competition and I’m sure that if I had ridden the route by myself there would be something missing: meeting like-minded people to do things that are a little crazy but a lot of fun.

Me at the finish line

The two Franks

Jonas after finishing the Audax

My Bikepacking Gear List

I was asked several times what I bring on my bikepacking tours. So, I decided to put up a gear list of an average trip. Notice that the gear you need is very dependent on the weather, length of your trip and resupply options. I only use this setup for short to medium distance trips with daily access to water and food. I don’t bring a tent usually. I’m using shelter huts or my hammock (+ tarp). Furthermore, I don’t bring a cooking system. I will get food from restaurants on my way or eat uncooked food from the supermarkets. For anything more than this (food for several days, tent, etc.), I think bikepacking wouldn’t be the right option and I’d rather choose a rack-with-panniers setup.

On my body

• Bib shorts

• Jersey

• Cycling vest

• MTB shoes

• Helmet

• Sunglasses

Seat BAG (Apidura Expedition Saddle Pack 17 L)

• Sleeping bag (with silk liner)

• Softshell pants

• Light down jacket

• Light fleece sweater

• Merino shirt

• Merino underwear

• Flip flops

Frame bag (Apidura Expedition Frame Pack 4.5 L)

• Rain jacket

• Small towel

• Small bike lock

• Repair kit

• Pocket knive

• Toiletries

• Hand pump

• Battery pack + charging cable

Handlebar bag (Apidura Expedition Handlebar Pack 14 L)

• Hammock

• Tarp

• Sleeping pad

• First aid kit

ACCESSORY bag (Apidura EXPEDITION ACCESSORY POCKET 4.5L)

• Snacks

• Drone (optional)

• Camera

• Packable backpack for groceries